Rapallo - A Short History of the beautiful village of the Italian Riviera
Rapallo, a charming town in the Liguria region located along the Riviera di Levante, is one of the jewels of the Gulf of Tigullio. Its rich and varied history stands out for its significant historical events, diverse cultural influences, and remarkable architectural heritage.
The Origins
The earliest traces of human settlement in Rapallo date back to pre-Roman times, with the Ligurians (also known as "Ligures") being the main inhabitants of the area. After the Roman defeated the Ligurians, Rapallo began to develop as a populated cente. Thanks to its strategic position along the Ligurian coast, the area was probably an important point of connection for both maritime and land trade routes.
Archaeological findings testify the Roman presence in the area. Also thanks to the discovery of remains of boats and goods in the holds of some sunken ships, historians hypothesise the presence of some strategic ports within the Gulf of Tigullio.
However, to get to the first written testimony we have to wait until 964 AD. Researchers have found a notarial document of sale of a land where the Rapallo village is clearly mentioned. The name of Rapallo probably derives from the presence of marshy swamps (“Rea Palus”, from the Latin bad swamp, or “Ra Palù”) that were present at the mouth of the Boate river, and close to the old town. However, others attribute the toponym of Rapa lo to the widespread presence of turnip cultivation. A final hypothesis would lean towards the Gothic term Rappa, “wrinkle”, “crack” “fold” to recall the morphology of the territory of Rapallo”)
The Middle Ages
During the Middle Ages, Rapallo underwent significant transformations. In 1229, Rapallo joined the Republic of Genoa, becoming part of the powerful dominion of the maritime city-state. This bond intertwined the town's fortunes with those of the "capital" and led Rapallo to enjoy the benefits, as well as the sacrifices sustained by the Maritime Republic. During the clashes between Genoa and Pisa , Rapallo suffered an attack by the Tuscan fleet, where a first medieval castle was destroyed (and no, it is not the one you can admire today on the sea. A little patience and we'll get there :)).
In the 14th century, Rapallo obtained the status of free municipality under Genoese rule, increasing its economic and social development. Between the end of the 15th century and the 14th century, the city was affected, like many other countries of the Italian peninsula, by clashes between the French and the Spanish for obtaining power over the Italian states. The long lasting "Italian Wars" had begun. It was during one of the battles fought in Rapallo that on September 8, 1494, the hospital of Sant'Antonio was attacked by Landsknecht mercenaries serving under the French and about 50 patients were killed. The former hospital is now the town hall.
Another terrible and implacable threat was yet to come. This time from the sea. Before the sunrise of July 4, 1549, the Turkish admiral Ali Turghud Réis (known as Dragut), attacked the town, taking with him goods and numerous slaves to sell on the Berber markets. Shortly thereafter, together with the castle of Rapallo(1551), numerous coastal fortifications (such as the so-called "Saracen towers") were built to spot and defend the Ligurian coast from attacks.
The Madonna di Montallegro
Despite the adverse events, under the Genoese influence Rapallo continues to flourish. The city is enriched with splendid palaces, churches and works of art.
Perhaps as a consolation for the cruel fate that had struck the city, the authorities recognise of the
Madonna di Montallegro apparition (July 2, 1557) on Mount Leto, where the Sanctuary of the same name will be built.
Built in 1558, in addition to still representing the cornerstone of the traditional July celebrations, it bears witness to the period of artistic and spiritual prosperity.
The Great Fortune of Tourism
Starting from the 18th century, Rapallo and the Rivieras began to become destinations of interest for those who, for pleasure and education, undertook international journeys to rediscover Italy and classical culture (grand tour). Similarly, the mild climate and proximity to the sea made many locations on the Ligurian Riviera and the French Riviera climatic resorts favorable to the care of the sick.
With the end of the Republic of Genoa and the arrival of the Savoy Monarchy, Rapallo experienced a new moment of transformation. In 1823, the course of the Boate river was diverted and regimented to allow the expansion of the port. Have you ever wondered what that beautiful medieval bridge called "Hannibal's Bridge" was doing, towering over a road? Here's the mystery explained
In 1868, the Rapallo railway station was inaugurated, making the town easily accessible for visitors from all over the world. Tourist accommodation rapidly adapts. All over the Gulf of Tigullio luxurious first-class hotels gradually emerge and new Grand Hotels are built in order to accommodate even the most demanding guests. The vegetable gardens, previously mainly for family use, became indispensable to the support of the restaurant services. Postcards and advertisements went around the world, enchanting seekers of beauty everywhere. Thus, nationally and internationally famous people took up residence for a few months or permanently in the Gulf (Nietzsche, Sibelius, Hemingway, Ezra Pound, etc.).
International Congresses - The Treaties of Rapallo
At the end of the First World War, Rapallo became the seat of two important international treaties. On November 12, 1920, the diplomatic delegations of Italy and Yugoslavia signed the Treaty of Rapallo at Villa Spinola (today within the territory of Santa Margherita Ligure). Italy was assigned the territories of Istria and Zara. The city of Fiume was declared an independent state, leaving the famous Adriatic (or Fiume) Question question open until its annexation in 1924 following the signing of the Treaty of Rome.
The second treaty was signed in a room of the Grand Hotel Imperiale, which had also previously been part of the Rapallo territory. During the International Conference of Genoa, a delegation of the new and “outcast” Soviet Russia signed an agreement with the “defeated” Germany for the mutual renunciation of reparations for war expenses, the restoration of normal diplomatic relations between the two countries and mutual economic assistance. It is April 16, 1922, the beginning of that “Rapallo Geist” (spirit of Rapallo), which inspired the relations between the two countries until the rise of Hitler.
In those days in the city, in addition to the presence of the Battleship Cavour, anchored in front of the Kursaal, there are 200 carabinieri, and 1254 delegates. In addition to these, there are numerous journalists and special correspondents, including Hemingway, D’Annunzio and Pietro Nenni.
After the Second World War
The war ends. Rapallo, unlike nearby Recco, is almost entirely spared from the Allied bombings. However, the most significant and evident urban development of the city dates back to this period. The stretch of highway between Recco and Rapallo was inaugurated on December 15, 1965, marking the beginning of a new economic and social phase.
"Rapallizzazione", denotes the process of uncontrolled urbanization of some Italian locations following the post-war economic boom. The term was first used by thw journalist and writer Indro Montanelli to denounce the phenomenon. The clear reference to "concretization" is linked to the town of Rapallo as it is taken as a symbol of the architectural involution that occurred starting in the 1960s with enormous naturalistic, urbanistic and aesthetic damages. In fact, over the years, numerous buildings were built without adequate communication routes, parking lots, or meeting points. The phenomenon also involved numerous mountain and seaside areas in other Italian locations (as the similar term "Riminizzazione" recalls to denote the process that took place in the Romagna town Rimini). The recent past of Rapallo and its protagonists still cast their shadows on its current reality, enveloping it and making it less permeable to progress.
Despite these contradictions, often not very visible to the eyes of a tourist, Rapallo is today a city that offers itself as an attractive choice for a holiday. Its lively history, enviable natural heritage and its strategic position, which allows it to be easily connected to Genoa, as well as to the Cinque Terre, Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure and Camogli, make Rapallo an ideal choice for getting to know Liguria and its territory.
The Castle on the Sea, the Vittorio Veneto promenade, the Basilica of Saints Gervasio and Protasio and the aforementioned Sanctuary of Montallegro are just some of the attractions that testify to the rich cultural heritage of the city. The "July Festivals", the patronal festivals that take place every year in the first three days of July to celebrate the Madonna di Montallegro, keep alive the testimony of a past that will never fade.
«It is impossible to talk about landscape without being a poet or quoting another."»
Sigmund Freud, letter from Rapallo - 1905
Bibliography and Further Readings
Benatti Pier Luigi & Carta Emilio (2000) - Il convegno e i trattati di Rapallo
Burzi Pietro - Corsari Saraceni e Barbareschi Carta Emilio (2018) - Italo Primi: L'uomo e l'artista Rotta Alessandra - Rapallo: La storia nei Secoli (2019)
Altri fonti: MarenostrumRapallo Il Trattato Italo Jugoslavo - https://www.marenostrumrapallo.it/il-trattato-italo-jugoslavo/ Roger Crowley tradotto da F. Saba Sardi (2009) Imperi del Mare: Dall'assedio di Malta alla Battaglia di Lepanto